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This feisty, energetic, and very talkative little bird, is a great choice for the previous bird owner that is looking for a step up from a cockatiel or budgie, but is not ready for the "big guys" yet.
Quakers are one of my favorite species out of all the birds I breed. Who could ever look into a brooder, and see this little bird shaking from head to toe (quaking), and not just fall in love, would be a strong person indeed. They are very hearty, stocky little birds, that can withstand quite cool whether, and are very prolific breeders. This being the reason, that many states have banned them. Since, feral quakers can do quite well "in the elements", they colony breed, and make messes out of power lines, and there is always a fear of damage to crops if the numbers aren't kept under control.
What they lack in color (being primarily green and grey), they make up for in personality. They are highly intelligent, and their talking ability is ranked third of all the pscitticine parrots. They are known for not only being able to mimic, but actually carry on small conversations, much like the African Grey, and amazona species.
Even though quakers are a small bird, they have a lot of the idiosyncrasy's of the larger parrots. These con's should be taken very seriously and handled properly, in order to assure peace and harmony with your new baby for life. Quakers like many parrots go through two trying periods in their life (a span which is 30-45 yrs). One is adolescence, very similar to the "terrible two's" in children. Where they are not babies any more, but not yet adults either. This is a confusing time for a quaker, that is not sure of his boundaries and limits, or his place in the flock. This is the time, your sweet little baby, can seem to turn into a spoiled little brat, dominating you. Different signs of this are cage aggressiveness, aloofness, and nippiness. All of these things need to be addressed as they are discovered, very firmly, yet lovingly. Do not let your quaker dominate you at any time. If you do, your bird will automatically think he has the upper hand, and it is very hard to turn back.
Let us address the main problems:
-Cage Dominancy: this is best kept under control by NOT buying "the biggest cage you can afford", like you would do with some other medium sized bids. Quakers do best in a large cockatiel cage 2X2X2, or slightly larger... with lots of toys, and perches of various heights and sizes to keep them busy. A larger cage, brings about the cage dominancy faster, so cage size with these guys is very important.
A scenerio like this is usually the case.. you have always gone to get your baby out of the cage, and he has always happily stepped up. But, today, you go to get your loved one and he acts like a little green demon.. running from you, or standing his ground in a defensive posture, or even aggressively nipping. This is something that you CANNOT let pass. Don't just think... "oh he is tired, or grumpy, etc... and I will leave him alone for now", and retreat... only to come back later, to an even more aggressive bird. This MUST be dealt with at the time. Depending on the bird, as they very greatly in individual personality, your bird will at one time react with one of these behaviors, if not all. When he does, you MUST make him come out of his cage, at all costs. Sometimes, again depending on your birds specific tolerance and personality, this may reacquire getting nipped, but at the least, actually chasing him down, and getting him out of the cage. Take him away from his cage, where he cannot see it, and calm him down, giving him lots of love and affection.
As soon as he calms down, return him to the cage. This shows him that you are still to be trusted, but most of all respected. If you don't address it as it happens, or another member of the family lets him get away with it, it will get progressively worse each time.
-Aloofness (a desire to stay away from you, either out of "undeserved fear" or unsociableness. Also, an over all problem of not stepping up, or running away) This is just simply a quakers desire to show his Independence.. and while this might sound like a good idea, especially from a baby who has wanted your undivided attention, it is not. This usually happens in or around the cage, but can happen anywhere... such as getting on the floor and running from you, or unwillingness to step up from a t-stand or etc. This must be treated in the exact same way, as the cage dominancy. You MUST get him under control. TRY to make him step-up if that is an issue, by not only offering your hand in front, but also bringing your hand around back... making him feel "trapped". If he absolutely refuses, then simply pick him up, but be prepared, if he should nip, that you do not drop him. Never use a towel or gloves on a tame baby. This traumatizes them many times, and then grooming, can become traumatizing as well.
-Nippiness... this is usually associated with one of the two above mentioned things. And if this is the case, should be treated in the same way. However, another thing, that quakers are infamous for, is becoming attached to only one or two people in the family. Then, if an undesired person comes around, the quaker will nip them, if they are close enough, or actually nip the favored person, in an attempt to make the favored person move away.
There are many, many things to do, to work on this... much too long to mention here, so if you are having a problem with this with your quaker, please email me, and give me specific details, and I will try to help. So, for this article, I will just mention several things you can do, to help minimize this kind of behavior. But, keep in mind, that quakers almost always only pick one or two people in the family that they like, and very rarely get along with everyone in a family... especially if you have small children.
You can help minimize a quakers nippiness in the following ways:
-first of all, make sure everyone in the family, is in agreement about getting a quaker, before you bring him home. Then, make sure, that everyone holds the baby, and helps take care of him, from a very early age on. This helps the quaker, acknowledge everyone in the family as part of it's "flock".
-second, if the quaker starts showing favor ism, do not show him that you think that it is funny in any way, or give any other signs of approval. Show the baby, that his behavior is NOT desired by you, by a firm NO, and maybe time back in his cage.
-third, find out if the baby has a special treat, that maybe the undesired person could give him.
-fourth, don't spend any more time, with your baby when you bring him home, then you can realistically always spend with him. Birds are very jealous creatures, and if you start spending less time, and the bird sees his favored person with the undesirable person more than with him, he may deem it all their fault... and take out the aggression when he is let out of his cage.
Above all, keep in mind that most well socialized and hand fed baby quaker parrots are "all bark and no bite", so don't be afraid to stick your hand out there at any time, and call their bluff.
But, also, that sometimes, even with the best preventative care, quakers ARE going to pick their favorites (as a lot of birds do), and there is nothing you can do. Take this into account when deciding if a baby quaker is right for your family.
These behaviors can be exhibited at any time, but are most often exhibited at adolescence (4-6 mons) and the onset of sexual maturity (1-2 years).
If you can make it through those two very trying times, and keep harmony in the house, with anyone that may be deemed "undesirable", you are going to have a wonderful long lived pet.
Now, that we have discussed the cons.. let's recap the pro's... so you don't think I am against these lovely little birds. Like I said, quakers are one of the favorite species I breed.
They are beautiful (even if they aren't the most colorful), smart, and talk very well. Some of my babies are talking before they ever leave!
They are hearty, rarely getting ill (although they are prone to obesity.. so a diet high in fresh or frozen fruits and veggies is very important), and if you decide to breed, or have already acquired a breeding pair are very prolific, and easy to get started.
So, in short, if you want a wonderful medium sized bird that is going to talk up a storm, is very easy to take care of, and is very moderately priced a quaker is for you!!
We sell green quakers for $200 and blues for $450. Compared to other highly talkative birds, that is a great deal, considering timneh and congo greys sell for $900-1100, and amazons anywhere from $600-900. And, you don't need the huge cage, and to spend a fortune on toys.
Quakers are not vivacious chewers, so several toys you can rotate are ideal. I haven't found quakers to be big fans of swings, but seem to like boings and cotton rope twisty perches very well. Quakers can become very enamored with mirrors, even to the point of protectiveness, so be careful, when using a mirror.
For any further information, or to be put on a waiting list for a beautiful little quaker baby please email, or leave a message on the board if it is appropriate for public knowledge!
Thanks,
Monica
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